Prototype 4

Chenille Strip Prototype

We have been weaving photonic bandgap (PBG) fibers on a computer-controlled electronic Jacquard loom, in order to produce textile displays with dynamic appearance. In their cross section, PBG Bragg fibers feature a periodic sequence of hundreds of nano-sized layers of two distinct plastics. Under ambient illumination, the fibers appear colored due to optical interference in their microstructure.

This sample is created using chenille to explore the possible uses as an upholstery or carpeting fabric. The contrast in texture and reflectance highlights the qualities of the PBG fibers.


photo · Ronald Borshan
video · XS Labs

Prototype 2

Leaf Pattern Prototype II

The appearance of the reflective textile can be varied dramatically by using different weave patterns, such as the ones enabled by a computerized Jacquard loom. The Jacquard loom allows the weaver to individually address each warp thread so as to create complex weave structures including double weaves.

A double weave is a type of woven cloth in which two warps and two sets of weft yarns are interwoven to form a two layered cloth. We used a white cotton warp, a white cotton weft and a PBG fiber weft to create individual illuminated designs in the textile display.

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photos · Ronald Borshan & Joanna Berzowska

Prototype 1

Leaf Pattern Prototype I

To systematically study the reflection of PBG fiber textiles, we have prepared a Jacquard textile with a three leaf pattern, each using a variety of weft face double weave structures. We wove the pattern twice, using two different diameters of PBG fibers, 500 and 300 microns.

The first sample was woven with the thicker fibers using a double weave where the warp yarns are separated into two layers so as to bring the PBG fibers to the surface in the leaf pattern and weave them in the back layer in the area around the leaf. In the leaf, the PBG fiber is woven in a 1/7 twill structure in the front layer, while the cotton yarn was woven in a 2/2 pocket weave structure in the back layer. The two layers are connected by reversing the positions of the two layers outside the leaf pattern, but are not connected inside the leaf, which is also known as pocket cloth or pocket weave, since it creates pockets between the two layers.

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photos · Ronald Borshan

Prototype 5

Silk Strip Prototype

This sample uses our most successful double weave strutures. The video shows the reflection of ambient light from a PBG fiber-based textile as a function of the angle of observation.


photo · Joanna Berzowska
video · XS Labs

Prototype 6

Woven Architectual Lighting Panel Prototype

This piece is the prelude to the Light Panel. We transitionned to using a brocade structure to isolate the PBG fibers in the middle of the textile, so as to create a distinct illuminated shape in the center of the textile panel.

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photos · Joanna Berzowska & Ronald Borshan

Prototype 7

Soy Sauce Drips with Lighting Strip

PBG fibers are highly reflective and have the appearance of colored metallic mirrors. A straight PBG fiber exposed to ambient light can "sparkle" when the incidence angle and the angle of observation are properly chosen.

The sparkling effect can be enhanced by introducing bends into the fiber. The appearance of the reflective textile can be varied dramatically by using different weave patterns, such as the ones enabled by a computerized Jacquard loom.

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photos · Joanna Berzowska

Prototype 8

White Silk Dress Strips

These strips were woven on the Jacquard, with a white cotton warp and two wefts: white silk and PBG fibers.

These strips were created as prototypes for the 'pleet' dress, which ultimately used woven strips with black silk and PBG fibers.

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photos · Ronald Borshan
video · XS Labs

Prototype 9

Black Silk Dress Strips

Black cotton warp with black silk weft and PBG fibers create decorative illuminating strips to be integrated into a garment.


photo · Joanna Berzowska

Prototype 10

Hand Weaving Prototype II

This sample is woven on our new handloom from Leclerc and tests various weave structures with the photonic fibres in the warp.

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photos · Marguerite Bromley

Prototype 11

Sculptural Hand Weaving

We integrated stainless steel wire into the weft, together with black cotton and continuous PBG fibres, to create a malleable 3D illuminated sculptural structure.

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photos · Joanna Berzowska, Marguerite Bromley, Marc Beaulieu

Prototype 12

Sparkl Prototype I

Using fiber imagery as a base, this weaving has a black cotton warp, and white linen weft threads and PBG fiber weft threats at regular irregular intervals and in varied amounts.

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photos · Joanna Berzowska

Prototype 13

Sparkl Prototype II

This weaving has a black cotton warp, and olive green cotton weft threads and PBG fiber weft threats at regular even intervals.

The depth inherent to the fiber imagery explored in this series, ultimately came to evoke seaside landscapes where the reflected and transmitted light collapses sea and grass, creating dynamic ripples.

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photos · Joanna Berzowska

Prototype 3

Lamp Weaving

Woven pattern for a lamp. (more information and photos to come)

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photos · Ronald Borshan